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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.